In this informative how-to video Mark Polk installs a set of Bushwacker Pocket-Style fender flares on a Ram truck. The fender flares were painted to match the truck using Bushwacker’s color-matching service. Get started on your Bushwacker project today.
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Posted in Auto Body repair, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto News, Auto repair, Bushwacker Fender Flares, How To Videos Automotive, Truck Topics | Tags: automotive how to videos, Bushwacker fender flares, Bushwacker Pocket Style fender flare installation, how to install Bushwacker fender flares, how to install fender flares on a Ram truck
In my search for a Mopar car restoration project I ran across an auction that was less than 30 minutes from where we live. They were selling an old dragstrip and about 60 cars that were parked on the property for many years. The auction ad said there were three Dodge Super Bees (a 68,69 & 70) and three Plymouth GTXs (one 69 and two 67s) among other cars. I always thought about restoring a Super Bee or GTX and could not believe these cars were this close to us and I never knew it. They also had two Dodge Sweptline trucks (a 67 & 70 model). The day before the auction you could preview the cars and I think I was the first one there that morning. Unfortunately it didn’t take long to see, that except for salvaging a few parts, they were all beyond repair or restoration.
The 70 Super Bee in the picture was a factory 440 six-pack car, but the motor was long gone. By the looks of the hood and the homemade spoiler on the back deck it probably made lots of runs down that old dragstrip in days gone by.
I’ll keep looking for a good Mopar project car.
Auto Education 101
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Posted in Auto Body repair, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto News, Auto repair, Car Shows, Car Topics, Engine topics, How To Articles Automotive, How To Topics, Truck Topics | Tags: Dodge Super Bee, Dodge Sweptline, mopar project car, mopar restoration, Plymouth GTX, Super Bee 440 six pack, Superbee
When I rebuilt the poly head 318 engine for the 70 Power Wagon project I added an Edlebrock P600 6-pack manifold with 3 Rochester carburetors. At the time I didn’t think about needing access to water jackets in the manifold for additional temperature sending units. The old gauge cluster required one water temperature sending unit for the electric water temperature gauge and the P600 intake had one threaded hole for a sending unit.
It wasn’t until I decided to add an electric fan and mechanical water temperature gauge into the mix that I realized I had a problem. I need two sending units, but only had one space in the intake to install them. When it comes to water temperature sending units I prefer to install it in the intake manifold as close to the thermostat housing as possible for accurate readings of the water temperature in the engine. My thoughts are if you put the sending unit at the radiator you get a cooler temperature reading because, number one it’s at the radiator not the engine, and number two you get a temperature reading after the thermostat opens.
This is more of a concern for the electric cooling fan than it is for the water temperature gauge because the cooling fan is designed to come on and turn off at a set temperature. If the water is cooler at the radiator the cooling fan could possibly come on and stay on if the water temperature, which is somewhat regulated by the thermostat, does not drop low enough to turn the fan off. A bigger problem could be the water at the radiator never gets hot enough to turn the fan on in the first place.
Because of these concerns my plan was to install the cooling fan sending unit at the intake manifold, but the threaded hole was too small for the sending unit threads. I have not looked into adapters yet, or the possibility of replacing the sending unit with one that has the same temperature settings but smaller threads. This leaves the only option for installing the mechanical temperature sending unit at the upper section of the radiator or by splicing into the upper radiator hose using a hose adapter that has a welded bung adapter for another sending unit.
I am still trying to sort this out in my mind and will keep you posted on what I figure works best to sovle the problem.
Auto Education 101
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Posted in 300 HP Poly Engine Rebuild, 71 Power Wagon - Water Temperature & Electric Fan Sending Units, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto repair, Engine topics, How To Articles Automotive, How To Topics, Truck Topics | Tags: electric cooling fan sending unit, mechanical gauge sending unit, temperature sending unit in intake manifold, temperature sending unit in radiator hose, water temperature sending unit adapter
Comments Off on Next Project Vehicle – 1980 Jeep CJ7
Posted in 1980 Jeep CJ7 Project, 4X4 Topics, Auto Body repair, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto repair, Car Topics, Engine topics, How To Articles Automotive, How To Topics | Tags: 1980 Jeep CJ7, Jeep 4X4 project, Jeep AMC 304, Jeep CJ build, Jeep CJ restoration project, jeep CJ7 project, jeep restoration, Silver Anniversary Jeep CJ
When I bought the truck I thought the truck bed was in good shape. There were a few spots with primer, but I didn’t see any signs of rust. At some point in time the truck had two small saddle fuel tanks installed in the bed so there were two fuel doors I wanted to weld patch panels on to conceal. I just cut some pieces of metal out, put it behind the fuel door opening and welded the new panels in place. After a couple light coats of Bondo it was as if they never existed.
Then I got the grinder out to see what was behind the primer. Both rear bed corners were hit and repaired at some point. The driver’s side wasn’t too bad and I managed to straighten the metal and make the repair. The passenger side was another story. First there was more than 1/2 inch thick old Bondo used to fill the damaged area rather than straightening the metal first. The bed corner was in really bad shape.
I knew there was a company that made some patch panels for these old Sweptline trucks and they did offer the bed corner panels, so I ordered one for $95 and waited for it to get here. When it arrived I cut the old bed corner out, cleaned everything up and sanded and primered the areas I could get to including the back of the patch panel before moving forward with the repairs. When I set the new bed corner in place I immediately noticed it was about 3/8 of an inch wider then the existing corner.
It was too late to turn back now so I decided to cut the patch panel in half, overlap it and weld it to make it fit. It made the repair job more difficult and more time consuming, but it eliminated dealing with the old bent up bed corner.
My plan is to do all the work on the bottom half of the truck bed while it’s off the truck with easy access. Then I’ll put the bed back on the truck, make any repairs to the top half, prime it and get it to paint.
When all of that is finished I can fabricate the rear bumper and start on the exhaust system.
Auto Education 101
When I decided to add a 12-volt winch to my 71 Power Wagon restoration project my initial thoughts were to mount a LED light bar above the winch or install one under or in the winch bumper I fabricated for the truck. When I was taking measurements for the LED light bar I measured the slots in the truck’s grill and discovered two 21 inch LED light bars would fit in the grill openings.
The grill that came on the truck was pretty beat up from the hood latch sticking and pounding the grill when you close the hood. On one of my sweptline parts hunting missions I found and purchased a NOS grill in perfect condition with NOS grill inserts to match. To install the LED light bars the way I was thinking would require cutting the grill inserts in half which I didn’t want to do with the new grill. My old grill inserts had some broken and craked plastic pieces but with time, patience and some Gorilla glue I was able to repair it, and after some sanding and paint it looked like new.
So the experiement to mount the light bars in the grill was moving forward. I cut the old grill inserts in half to salvage the lower sections with the turn signal and parking lights. Initially I was going to fabricate mounts for the light bars and install them on the outside of the top grill openings. But, after more measuring I realized I could install them behind the grill leaving the face of the light bars almost flush with the grill. It not only looked better but it was much more secure.
With both light bars securely mounted I installed the lower grill inserts that I repaired and painted, the KC Hi Lite headlights, the turn signals and the grill itself. I was happy with the installation except for the small gap between the light bar and grill on both ends of each light. I had some heavy duty rubber left over from a lift kit installation on a CJ Jeep so I cut pieces to fill the gaps and glued them to the ends of the light bars using weatherstripping adhesive. With everything in place I wired the light bars to a toggle switch on the dash and included a fusible link for good measure.
Auto Education 101
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Posted in 71 Dodge Power Wagon Build, 71 Power Wagon - LED Light Bar Project, Auto Body repair, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto repair, How To Articles Automotive, How To Topics, Truck Topics | Tags: Dodge truck LED light bar project, Installing LED light bars on Dodge sweptline, Installing two 21 inch LED light bars, LED light bar installation on power wagon, LED light bar project
When I first removed the hood I noticed that one hood hinge had 5 shims on the upper bolt and the other side had 4 shims on the upper bolt, so I knew it would be a challenge re-installing the hood and getting the lines and height straight. Especially when the old hood didn’t close properly and in more than half the Sweptline truck pictures you see the hood doesn’t close right. I also noticed some play in the driver’s side hinge so I picked up a used set of hood hinges that were in a little better shape.
The first thing I did was clean, sand, primer and paint the hood hinges. I used my favorite POR cast iron paint again. Earlier in the project I fixed some small dents in the hood and sanded, primed and painted it. The hardest part of prepping the hood for paint was the underside because of years of grime and grease getting eveywhere. When I painted the fabricated winch bumper with a darker shade of paint I decided to paint the raised center section of the hood the same color for an accent color on the truck.
Modern day hoods don’t seem to require as much adjustment as the older hoods, and since I am not an experienced bodyman by trade I knew it would be a challenge. There are 5 bolt holes on the hood hinges (2 that go in the hood itself and 3 that go on the body) and all 5 are adjustable. The first step was to get the hood in position and start some bolts. My son and my wife came to the shop to help with this part. With gthe hood back on the truck, and no scratched paint so far, I started experimenting with the adjustments. The first problem was the back of the hood was raised up too high and it did not go far enough back towards the cowl. When I removed the hood I labeled all the bolts and 2 of them (labeled as top hood hinge bolts) had the shims taped the bolts. This is why it pays to label things when you take it apart.
I started by shimming the top hood hinge bolts with 2 washers on each side. I noticed the back of the hood lowered with the shims, but not enough so I added a third washer to both sides. With the lines between the hood and the fenders looking better the next problem was the rear of the hood was too far from the cowl and it was raised higher than the cowl. I tried tightening the hinge bolts just tight enough to hold the hood in place and then using my weight to press down on the rear of the hood. It would go into place, but when I raised the hood just far enough to really snug the bolts it still had the same problem. I always use chalk to mark the current location on the hinges so I can at least get it back to the most recent adjustment if things really get out of whack. I tried just about everything, but nothing seeded to work. Then for no good reason I decided to leave 4 of the bolts snug and only loosen the bottom hinge bolt that goes into a bracket mounted on the fender. With that bolt loose and the other four tight I picked up on the hinge and tightened the bolt at the same time. This adjustment lowered the rear of the hood and lined things up with the cowl.
It still needs some fine tuning, but I’m sure I can get it aligned now so I went ahead and installed the hood latch and the safety catch.
Now it’s onto the truck’s bed, which is quite a project in itself. I’ll keep you posted.
Auto Education 101
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Posted in 71 Dodge Power Wagon Build, 71 Power Wagon - Tackling the Hood, Auto Body repair, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto repair, Hood & Steering Wheel, How To Articles Automotive, How To Topics, Truck Topics | Tags: adjusting hood hinges on sweptline truck, adjusting hood on dodge sweptline, dodge sweptline restoration project, dodge sweptling hood hinges, installing hood on 71 power wagon
A big mistake I made when I first removed the doors was to not drill a couple holes through the hinges, with the doors on, to help align things when it was time to put the doors back on. If you drill a couple holes through the door hinges before removing the doors you just line the holes up slip a drill bit or bolt in the holes and the doors are back in the original correct position. Without the holes it took me awhile to adjust the lines and gaps between the door, fender and cowl when I re-installed the doors on the truck. Now that the doors are back on it was time to tackle all the door hardware, the window regulators, window glass and the weatherstripping. One thing that made the job easier is the top section of the power wagon’s doors (the part that goes around the windows) unbolt and come off, giving you better access to install the wing window and door glass.
The first thing I did was use some leftover bed liner paint I had on the inside bottom sections of the doors. Next I cleaned and sanded the window regulators and door latches and painted them with POR cast iron spray paint. I painted the vent window frames awhile back so they were ready to go. One of my exterior door handles was damaged so I bought two new door handles which are really nice.
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Posted in 71 Power Wagon - Installing Doors & Windows, Auto Body repair, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto repair, How To Articles Automotive, How To Topics, Truck Topics | Tags: door weather stripping, installing doors on 71 power wagon, installing window regulator, installing windows and hardware on power wagon
When I purchased the 71 Dodge power wagon project truck it did not have a front bumper and my plan was to add a 12-volt electric winch, so I decided to fabricate my own winch bumper. I have lots of scrap metal at the shop, so the only thing I bought for the front winch bumper project was a universal winch mounting plate. The winch plate was made of heavy gauge metal and it was pre-drilled for the winch and fairlead to bolt right up. I used some heavy gauge flat stock I had at the shop to extend the frame rails out to acommodate the winch plate, and I left the bolts a little loose so I could make minor adjustments as I go.
When I fabricate bumpers I use pieces of cardboard to mock-up the design and to make templates for all the metal pieces I will need for the project. After I trace the pattern on the metal I pre-cut the metal pieces using a chop saw, circular saw and/or a grinder with metal cutting discs. You can use the same template for opposite sides of the bumper, but if you are using something like diamond plate steel make sure the template is positioned properly so the diamond plate pattern comes out on the right side after it’s cut. After the pieces are cut I tack weld them and check the position for a proper fit.
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Posted in 71 Power Wagon - Fabricating a Front Winch Bumper, Auto Body repair, Auto maintenance & repair, Auto repair, How To Articles Automotive, How To Topics, Truck Topics | Tags: designing a truck winch bumper, Dodge power wagon winch bumper, fabricate front winch bumper, how to fabricate a winch bumper, power wagon winch, winch mounting plate
- 1980 Jeep CJ7 Project
- 300 HP Poly Engine Rebuild
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- 71 Dodge Power Wagon Build
- 318 A Poly Head Engine Resources Page
- 71 Dodge Power Wagon – A Picture is Worth A Thousand Words
- 71 Dodge Power Wagon – Interior Work
- 71 Power Wagon – 318 Poly Engine Start Up Woes
- 71 Power Wagon – A New Pair of Shoes
- 71 Power Wagon – All I Wanted was a Good Paint Job
- 71 Power Wagon – Fabricating a Front Winch Bumper
- 71 Power Wagon – Fenders
- 71 Power Wagon – Finishing the Frame
- 71 Power Wagon – Give it some Lift
- 71 Power Wagon – Installing Doors & Windows
- 71 Power Wagon – LED Light Bar Project
- 71 Power Wagon – Mopar Charging System Wirng Headaches
- 71 Power Wagon – Parts Fitment Issues
- 71 Power Wagon – Prep the Cab for Paint
- 71 Power Wagon – Tackling the Hood
- 71 Power Wagon – Time for Wiring
- 71 Power Wagon – Truck Bed Bodywork
- 71 Power Wagon – Water Temperature & Electric Fan Sending Units
- 71 Power Wagon Finding a Transmission
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